Paisley, Scotland’s Nineteenth-Century Shawl Designers: Innovators or Imitators?
Facilitated by increased trade between Asia and Europe, handloom-woven shawls from the Kashmir region of the Indian subcontinent became desirable clothing for Europeans connected with trade in India during the mid-eighteenth century. By the 1780s, European manufacturers had picked up on this trend, producing textiles which imitated Asian patterns but sold at lower prices to meet a wider market. Kashmiri shawls and their imitations were ubiquitous in Britain by the mid-nineteenth century and were particularly favoured by women as an outer layer of clothing. This PhD thesis investigates the imitation Kashmiri shawl industry of one of the most renowned and prominent European producers – the town of Paisley, Scotland – to assess the artistic innovation of local shawl designers between 1805 to 1870. Having initiated production in 1805 – years later than its British competitors in Edinburgh and Norwich – by the mid-nineteenth century Paisley’s name was synonymous in much of the Anglophone world with the teardrop-shaped floral motif that was iconic of the Kashmiri shawl. However, during the 1830s manufacturers in Norwich and Edinburgh vocally complained of Paisley designers ‘pirating’ their work. These accusations encouraged more rigorous intellectual property laws, as well as the nationwide establishment of government-subsidised schools of design during the 1830s and 1840s. It was hoped that the Paisley Government School of Design (founded in 1848) would train local designers to create original, quality patterns. Tracing the oft-intertwining effects of globalisation, industrialisation, and national design reform upon the role of designers in nineteenth-century British textile industries, I examine Paisley manufacturers’ leading role in producing imitation Kashmiri shawls by asking several fundamental questions: What kind of design culture existed in Paisley? Did Paisley’s shawl designers bring any innovation to the visuality and materiality of the imitation Kashmiri shawl? How much did European shawl designers (including those in Paisley) rely on the patterns of their competitors, including South Asian patterns, to produce their own work? And did the Government Schools of Design improve the quality and originality of patterns in the shawl industry? Resolving each of these questions will clarify whether design innovation was a factor in Paisley’s economic success.
URI for this recordhttp://hdl.handle.net/1974/28166
Request an alternative formatIf you require this document in an alternate, accessible format, please contact the Queen's Adaptive Technology Centre
The following license files are associated with this item:
Except where otherwise noted, this item's license is described as Queen's University's Thesis/Dissertation Non-Exclusive License for Deposit to QSpace and Library and Archives Canada
Showing items related by title, author, creator and subject.
Comparing the Design of Two Yaletown Open Spaces: An Evaluation of Design Elements and the Physical Environment Sherstone, Andrew (2011-08-29)This report compares two open spaces in downtown Vancouver through an evaluation of their design elements based upon literature pertaining to the design of parks and plazas. The intent of this study is to understand ...
Redesigning Assessment: the Design and Implementation of a Rubric-Based Assessment System to Improve Engineering Design Education Woodhall, Thomas (2008-09-27)Engineering education serves to provide society with competent engineering graduates, capable of making a difference to their profession and the world around them. Since the Grinter Report of the 1950s in the United States, ...
Kim, Sun Yong (2011-07-11)Structural topology optimization has been extensively studied in aeronautical, civil, and mechanical engineering applications in order to improve performance of systems. This thesis focuses on an optimal design of damping ...